Duckhorn Vineyards Howell Mountain merlot 1997 Magnum

Grape: Merlot
Vintage: 1997
Type: Red

This red comes from Howell Mountain, where volcanic ash and iron-rich red clay sit at elevations up to 2,200 feet, well above the valley floor's fog line. Duckhorn has bottled a Howell Mountain wine since 1989, built on a merlot program the winery pioneered in the American market starting in 1978. The mountain's thin, infertile soil forces small, thick-skinned berries, which is where a merlot this structured comes from. At 14.4% alcohol, it was built for the cellar rather than early drinking.

It displays a deep garnet color that has held its density through nearly 3 decades, opening with aromas of dried plum, tobacco leaf, and cedar. On the palate, the medium-bodied frame carries more structure than most merlot, balancing dark fruit against a mineral, iron-tinged backbone from the volcanic soil. Tannins have softened into a fine, resolved grip rather than dropping out. Acidity remains firm and keeps the wine from tasting tired. It finishes long and earthy, more savory than sweet at this age.