Antonio Madeira Branco 2023

Grape: Siriria, Fernão Pires, Bical, Arinto, Encruzado, and others
Vintage: 2023
Type: White

Crafted by Antonio Madeira, a pioneer in reviving old-vine Serra da Estrela terroirs in Portugal’s Dão region, this regional white is a masterclass in field-blend complexity. Sourced from small, granite-rich vineyard plots perched at high elevations (around 500 to 600 meters) on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela, the wine is composed of a mix of over twenty native grape varieties, many from vines between 50 and 120 years old. Madeira practices organic and biodynamic viticulture with minimal intervention in the cellar: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts in neutral tanks and stainless steel, aging on fine lees without battonage, and low-sulfur bottling to preserve the pure, electric energy of the mountain granite.

In the glass, it shines with a bright, pale lemon-yellow hue and shimmering greenish reflections. The nose is incredibly pure and mineral-forward, opening with lifted aromas of green apple, white peach, crushed granite, wet stone, lemon peel, and a subtle touch of wild mountain herbs. On the palate, a "crystalline" streak of high-altitude, laser-sharp acidity drives through a texturally focused, weightless mid-palate. The granite soils imprint a distinctly tactile, chalky grip that structures the mouthfeel alongside vibrant citrus and stone fruit flavors. It closes with an exceptionally long, mouthwatering finish that lingers with a crisp, saline mineral trail and citrus zest.