Antonio Madeira Branco 2023

Antonio Madeira Branco 2023

Antonio Madeira
$23.00 $25.00

Grape: Síria, Fernão Pires, Bical, Arinto, Encruzado, and others
Vintage: 2023
Type: White

Crafted by Antonio Madeira, a pioneer in reviving old-vine Serra da Estrela terroirs in Portugal’s Dão region, this regional white is a masterclass in field-blend complexity. Sourced from small, granite-rich vineyard plots perched at high elevations (around 500 to 600 meters) on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela, the wine is composed of a mix of over twenty native grape varieties, many from vines between 50 and 120 years old. Madeira practices organic and biodynamic viticulture with minimal intervention in the cellar: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts in neutral tanks and stainless steel, aging on fine lees without battonage, and low-sulfur bottling to preserve the pure, electric energy of the mountain granite.

In the glass, it shines with a bright, pale lemon-yellow hue and shimmering greenish reflections. The nose is incredibly pure and mineral-forward, opening with lifted aromas of green apple, white peach, crushed granite, wet stone, lemon peel, and a subtle touch of wild mountain herbs. On the palate, a "crystalline" streak of high-altitude, laser-sharp acidity drives through a texturally focused, weightless mid-palate. The granite soils imprint a distinctly tactile, chalky grip that structures the mouthfeel alongside vibrant citrus and stone fruit flavors. It closes with an exceptionally long, mouthwatering finish that lingers with a crisp, saline mineral trail and citrus zest.

 

Winery

António Madeira works in the Serra da Estrela area of Portugal’s Dão, where granite soils, elevation and old mixed vineyards give the region a distinctive voice. Born in Paris to a family with roots in the Dão, he first made wine here in 2010 and moved back with his family in 2017. His small holdings are spread among villages near Santa Marinha, preserving more than 45 native grape varieties, often growing together in the same old parcels. Biodynamic farming and work with horses reflect his commitment to keeping this vineyard heritage alive.

The cellar approach is informed by growers such as Jules Chauvet, Henri Jayer, Anne-Claude Leflaive and Richard Leroy. Fermentations use indigenous yeasts, with restrained sulfur additions and aging chosen to support each wine. The Vinhas Velhas whites and reds form the core of the estate range, while individual selections explore particular vineyards. The wines combine the freshness of the mountains with the depth of old vines, placing substance and clarity ahead of a standardized varietal profile.