Weingut Moric Hausmarke Super Natural 2023

Weingut Moric Hausmarke Super Natural 2023

Moric
$38.00

Grape: Gruner Veltliner Chardonnay
Vintage: 2023
Type: White

When Moric magically produces a highly seductive crisp and complex blend of mostly Gruner Veltliner and some Chardonnay we are not surprised. Here seemingly simple ingredients and techniques produce wines that are a far cry from stereotypical fruit-forward expressions, wines that touch a nerve. His Hausmarke ("House Wine") comes across as the quintessential understatement: a highly complex and satisfying white, fresh and lively with hard-to-pin-down notes of citrus and fennel, apparently the entry-level wine at the Moric estate. Unfortunately, the annual availability of this wine is always short-lived. This wine ages beautifully and we recommend putting a few bottles away for the long haul.

 

Moric is Roland Velich's project in Burgenland, and one of the estates most responsible for restoring Blaufrankisch to serious conversation. Instead of treating the grape as a simple, fruit-driven red, Velich approached it with the sensitivity usually reserved for Burgundy: old vines, specific villages, restrained extraction and aging that emphasizes structure over gloss. The wines come from places such as Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt, where limestone, schist and old vine material give Blaufrankisch depth, spice and nerve. Moric's best bottles are savory and transparent, proving that Austria's great red grape can be both intellectual and deeply pleasurable.