Dehours & Fils Brisefer Reserve Perpetuelle MV Extra Brut
Dehours & Fils Brisefer Reserve Perpetuelle MV Extra Brut – alternate view 2
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Dehours & Fils Brisefer Reserve Perpetuelle MV Extra Brut

Dehours & Fils
$98.00

Grape: Chardonnay
Vintage: MV
Type: Sparkling

This single-vineyard grower Champagne is crafted by Jérôme Dehours from the Brisefer parcel in Mareuil-le-Port, highlighting chardonnay. The cuvée incorporates a perpetual reserve system spanning harvests from 2013 to 2020 to minimize vintage variations. Primary fermentation occurs spontaneously with native wild yeasts in neutral barrels, followed by complete malolactic conversion. Maturing for thirty-six months on its lees before disgorgement, this extra brut establishes a distinct, site-driven identity.

It pours a pale straw-gold color with a fine, persistent mousse, opening with clean aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and raw hazelnut. A medium-to-full-bodied frame pairs concentrated citrus flavors with an underlying stony mineral core. A racy vein of natural acidity cuts through the waxy texture, keeping the mouthfeel lively. Subtle notes of fresh bread dough and woodsmoke add structural balance across the mid-palate. It finishes long and bone-dry with lingering salinity.

Jérôme Dehours took over the domaine in 1999 and started a conversion to organic viticulture, which is now complete. The domaine consists of 42 parcels, all within close reach of the winery. Dehours was the first producer in Champagne to offer “vins parcellaires” emanating from their lieux dits – a now commonplace practice. Total production is typically 70 -80,000 bottles a year, all of which are held back for an above-average period before release.

The wines are not filtered or fined, all enjoy a passage through wood, and they go through malolactic fermentation naturally in the spring. The yeasts used are indigenous, but Dehours makes their own cocktail of the best. Jérôme likes to employ the tailles, so often sold off by other producers, feeling that they impart useful and attractive qualities to the finished wines. The wines are fully aged on lees, and clarified by natural decanting, without filtration or fining.